Things You’ll Need:
- Leash
- Collar
Here are some very general guidelines. Of course, we won't list every dog breed on the planet, but they'll get you thinking in the right direction:
Intelligent dogs
Dogs that don't require much exercise
Good with kids
Good city dogs
Quiet dogs
Friendly dogs
There are dozens of breeds and dozens of traits to sort them by. You get the idea.
Again, these guidelines are EXTREMELY rough. Picking a dog based on these lists is like getting a phone number off a bathroom wall. There are no shortcuts. A good place to start your research is by checking out the American Kennel Club's complete list of breeds. Then try going to a dog show or talking to a vet. In our opinion, though, the absolutely best way to research is to talk to friends who have dogs. Believe us, they'll give you more information than you care to know.
In case you didn't realize it, all of the breeds we listed above are purebreds. This means that they are the product of parents of the same breed. To get a true purebred worthy of being in a dog show, you often have to pay thousands of dollars. Most people get mixes of some sort (the "cockapoo," a combo of a cocker spaniel and a poodle, is quite popular), because rumor has it that purebred dogs can have personality problems because the gene pool is so small (think of people who marry their cousins). As a result, many people choose to go with a mutt, a mish-mash of different breeds. Mutts can combine the best of two or more breeds in a one-of-a-kind dog. Having a mutt is like the canine equivalent of owning an original work of art. Benji was a mutt. And who doesn't like Benji?
Is this all sounding like too much work? Then go back again and reread step 1, because the work is just beginning. A dog is a living thing, but millions of dogs die every year because their masters didn't realize how much work caring for a dog really is. We're not trying to bum you out, but this is nothing compared to how bummed you'll be if you become one of those failed former dog owners.
Repeat the mantra a few more times. A dog is a living thing. A dog is a living thing. A dog is a living thing. If you work from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. six days a week, you're going to have a lonely, unhappy dog on your hands. And how do dogs show their unhappiness? In the absence of being able to say, "Pay attention to me, Poindexter," they'll do things like pee on your high school yearbook or methodically eat all your CDs. This isn't their fault. All together now - a dog is a living thing, a dog is a living thing, a dog is a living thing.
Here's a little "pup quiz" (the puns never stop!) that will help determine if you are ready to add one more member to the family. Answer "yes" or "no" to the following questions:
If you answered "no" to any of these, then you're probably not ready to become a dog owner। That's OK though . . . you're still allowed to like them.
Let's face it: with commands like "sit" and "come" under your dog's belt, you can take him out in public, but dog food commercial directors aren't pounding down your door. You want a dog that raises eyebrows, attracts comely (human) members of the opposite sex, and pays your bills. While all of these things may not actually happen, we can help you teach your dog a few more fun little tricks.
Shake
Fetch
You'll need your dog on a long leash or clothesline for this trick:
Door
This is a great trick to teach your dog how to shut doors on his own:
If you should come across any specific problems during any of these training exercises, talk to your dog's vet or with other dog owners (the ones with the obedient dogs). Or, check out some dog training discussion forums on-line at Petopia.
Your dog is now ready for Ivy League admission. And now that you've been trained in how to train a dog, reread these steps at least twice and help yourself to your favorite treat.
Good reader! Good reader!
Around 12 weeks of age, your dog is ready for some command training.
Pre-training tips:
Sit
The sit command is possibly the easiest command of them all:
Down
To get your dog to lie down, he must first have mastered the sit command:
Come
This useful command will get your dog to stop doing just about anything and come to you:
During the weeks when you're training your dog to do any of these tricks, if he does an action without your prompting (like if he just happens to walk over to you and sit down), go nuts over his great accomplishment, even though you didn't ask him to do it. Make a big fuss and gush, "GOOD SPARKY! SIT, SIT! Good boy!" At first, your bewildering actions will confuse your dog and possibly make him fret over your mental state. But because his major goal in life is to please you, he will soon plant his furry butt on the ground (or whatever it is you want them to do), just to get that wonderfully exciting reaction out of you again.
Any time a training session isn't going well switch to repeating a trick that your dog has already mastered, reward him for following your command properly, and end the session.

Sure, most dogs understand the basics --"fetch," "sit" and "stay." But if you have the motivation and patience, you will probably be able to teach your dog even more than 100 words. Stanley Coren, a psychologist who has performed a significant amount of research on the subject of dog intelligence, suggests that average trained dogs know about 160 words [source: Coren]. Some dogs even show a vocabulary as vast as a human toddler's.
Since at least the 1970s, when researchers successfully trained chimpanzees to use and read words in sign language, we have known that language, in a loose sense of the term, is not unique to humans. Animals have the brain power to understand human language and use their own languages in surprisingly profound ways. We all know parrots can be trained to speak human words. And dogs will react to the word "walk" with a knowing, tail-wagging enthusiasm.
How deep is the dog's bank of human words? On the next page, we'll take a look at one border collie's remarkable talent at retrieving objects of different names.

Contrary to popular belief, a wagging tail is not always a sign of a dog who's happy – they can be wagging their tail and biting somebody – so you have to read the whole dog. Basically you look at the dog and you say, "OK, is the dog leaning forward or is the dog leaning backward?" If he's leaning forward, he's more aggressive, more aroused, and more confident. If the dog is leaning backward, meaning the ears are back, then the whole demeanour is backward, and that's a more fearful dog. That's a really good tip on how to read a dog in general: forward or backward.
The day you get your dog is the day you start training you dog, whether that's at 7 or 8 weeks old, 8 or 9 years old; it doesn't matter. The day you get your dog is the day you start working with your dog.
The most important thing to think about when housebreaking a dog is prevention. You shouldn't give the dog the chance to make an accident in the house. Yet the reverse side is you take them outside, and you praise them like gold is coming out of their body. So you're teaching potty on the command, “good potty, good potty” as they are actually going potty. Therefore you prevent and you praise.
Dogs are naturally territorial and it's in their nature to bark at the front door if somebody's coming to greet you. What I do when they bark at the front door, is I say, "Thank you for letting me know an intruder's coming in," and then I teach "quiet", so a quiet command is imperative. I might also use different techniques such as maybe having the dog on a leash, using a spritz of breath spray, which is a deterrent, and saying "quiet". But I also acknowledge the dog for letting me know that there's an intruder by barking at the front door. But once they've become accepted, they need to be come quiet. "Quiet" is the command.
A dog needs to know that you are the mum, the authority figure, the person, and they like it. It's something that people have to come to terms with - the fact that dogs like it. It makes the dogs feel comfortable. The ways you can do that are by making the dog earn its food. No food for free, no free lunch. We make the dog earn praise. Before petting it, make the dog sit, lie down, or do something simple. It's very easy to get the dog to understand that you are its leader, and they want to be lead.
The difference between “negative” and “positive” training, is that in the old days, dog training came out of the military and so it's very punitive. If the dog didn't sit they would choke them in a choke chain. We learned since then that dogs are able to learn as early as six, seven, or eight weeks old. So, we use positive reinforcement to train dogs, meaning we use their food to train them; we make them work for their food. Dogs are much happier to do that than be choked by a choke chain.
Disciplining your dog has to do with who your dog is and its sensitivity level. Sometimes just a sharp command of "off" or "quiet" can do the trick. Sometimes, depending on the age of the dog, you might do an old-fashioned leash correction. You might do a muzzle grab. You might use breath spray. There are many, many ways to discipline your dog, but we need to make sure that the dog understands and takes the discipline seriously.
Socialisation begins at birth. The dog is socialised to the world - it's handled. So, socialisation is an ongoing process that never ends. It never ends.

So, you’ve got a new addition to your family, one who wags his or her tail and looks to you eagerly for food and love. Your pup is housebroken and comfortable in it’s home. Now what? Many people get a dog for the purpose of companionship or protection. They assume that a dog will simply adapt to their owner’s instructions and will do as they’re told in time. This may be so in some cases. However, the following is a surefire way to teach your dog to do some simple tricks. Once taught, you will see that it pleases your dog to perform these tricks, because our pets, more than anything, love to see us proud of them.
The first thing to take into consideration when training your dog is learning environment. The environment should be familiar, preferably in your home. If you have a yard, you may want to use the same training techniques both in your yard and inside your home. Dogs can have very short attention spans, and training your dog in a place with unfamiliar landscape, objects or scents will reduce your pup’s ability to focus.
The next considerations for proper dog training are rewards and punishments. Tangible rewards should consist of your dog’s favorite snack. It should be very small in size or broken into small pieces, because you may go through a large amount of treats in a short period of time. You will also use verbal praise as a reward, so that eventually your dog will do tricks without the promise of food. This will shortly be described in more detail. Rewards should only be given to a dog when it has properly performed the trick you are commanding it to do. If you instruct your dog to sit and it rolls over, your dog should not be rewarded.
Punishments for not performing a trick correctly should only include withholding of rewards and a firm “NO.” You want your dog to respect you, not fear you. Screaming or physically punishing your dog will cause your dog to be resistant to further training.
Another, and perhaps the most important, factor in training is voice tone. Your commands should be clear and firm. Your “No” tone should also be firm, and slightly louder. Your verbal praise should be loving, encouraging and excited. Think of how you would speak to a small child who has just accomplished something great. You may want to accompany verbal praise, such as “Good Boy/Girl,” with a pat on the head or a quick back scratch. Choice of words is also crucial. Choos one word or short phrase for each trick. If your dog doesn’t respond at first, do not get discouraged and do not change your word or phrase. This will only confuse your dog.
Once all of these factors are in place, teaching your dog should be fun and simple. Spend at least a solid hour teaching each trick, and teach only one trick per week. Practice that trick each day for at least a half-hour.
SIT
1) Stand about a foot from your dog, facing him/her. With one finger, point to the dog’s backside while saying “SIT.”
2) Take your hands and gently move your dog’s body into sitting position, repeating the word “SIT” every five seconds.
3) When your dog is sitting, give him/her a treat and verbal praise.
Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3. Eliminate step two when your dog sits on their own.
STAY
1) Instruct your dog to sit. Extend your hand, palm flat (as you would signal to
stop) and say the word “STAY.”
2) Repeat the word “STAY” every five seconds as you back away from your dog
Slowly, keeping your hand extended.
3) When you are about ten feet away, take down your hand and say “COME
HERE .”
4) Give your dog a treat only when he/she waits for your hand to come down and
for you to call them.
Repeat steps 1-4 , giving treats only when your dog stays put until your cue. Say
“NO” and start over if your dog comes before you give a signal. Next, try holding up
a treat while your “STAY” hand is still extended. If your dog does not stay, say
“NO” and hold your flat hand close to his/her face, saying “STAY.” Try pushing
your hand farther forward when you hold up the treat, to keep your dog focused on
the command rather than the reward.
LAY DOWN
1) Instruct your dog to sit. Hold your hand palm down and push it to the floor,
saying either “DOWN, “ or “LAY DOWN.”
2) Gently pull your dog’s front paws until they are laying down, repeating the
word “DOWN.”
3) Give your dog a reward and verbal praise when they are laying down.
Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3, eliminating step 2 when your dog lays down on command.
ROLL OVER
1) Instruct your dog to sit then lay down. Take a treat and hold it at your dog’s
Chin. Circle it very slowly around your dog’s head, allowing he/she to
follow it.
2) Say the words “ROLL OVER” as you bring the treat around the top of your
dog’s head. At this point, your dog should roll over naturally, trying to get
the treat.
3) Give your dog reward and praise when they have rolled over on command.
SHAKE HANDS
1) Instruct your dog to sit. Extend your hand, palm up, about a foot from the
ground and a foot from your dog. Say the word “PAW.”
2) Take your dog’s paw and place it in your extended hand, repeating the word
“PAW.”
3) Give your dog reward and praise when he/she gives you’re his/her paw.
Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3, eliminating step 2 when your dogs gives you’re his/her paw
on command. Once your dog has learned to do this, try saying “OTHER PAW,” and
moving your hand slightly to the left or right, depending on which paw you want
them to give you. Keep switching back and forth until your dog alternates between
paws.
Now that your dog has learned these simple tricks, continue to allow them to show off. You should keep in mind that you and your dog have worked hard to get to this point, and being consistent about practicing will keep your dog’s tricks fresh in his/her mind. You may want to use words or phrases different than the ones suggested above for each trick. That is fine, as long as you use the same word or phrase every time, and as long as it is not a word or phrase you will use for something else. You can also use these techniques for other tricks, altering the instructions slightly for each new trick. Enjoy your dog’s new abilities, and don’t forget to let your dog know how much you care about them every day.